Five Easy Tips For Enjoying A Walk With Your Dog

By Wendy Van Kerkhove, Star Tribune Sales and Marketing Last update: October 25, 2007 – 1:15 PM

Does a leisurely walk with your dog seem impossible?

Following the tips below can help teach your dog not to pull on the leash and ultimately make walking with your dog enjoyable for the both of you:

• Get your dog tired before the walk
  
  A tired dog has less energy to pull. Play fetch with your dog before the walk until your dog is worn out. If your dog doesn't like to fetch, then find another game (like chase) to tire him out. Even if you can't get him exhausted, any amount of energy exerted before the walk will slow him down.
  
  
• Go fast
  
  A dog's natural pace is faster than that of the average human's. Requiring your dog to walk without pulling is asking him to significantly slow down. Simply increasing the pace at which you walk should reduce the intensity with which your dog pulls on the leash. It is also helpful to begin your outing by walking briskly, or better yet, jogging, then slowing down for a more leisurely stroll.
  
  
• Teach your dog where the end of the leash is
  
  Before you begin your walk give your dog a treat so that he knows you've got "the goods." Start walking, and right before he hits the end of the leash call him back to you. When he comes back, give him a treat. Be sure that you continue to walk during this process. Keep repeating this procedure and eventually you should be able to teach your dog to look back at you before he reaches the end of the leash. At this point it is then okay to give him a treat only occasionally. The goal is to teach your dog to keep moving with a slack leash.
  
  
• Stop and be a tree
  
  If your dog pulls, stop dead in your tracks as soon as the leash gets tight. Don't move an inch until your dog looks back at you and takes a few steps in your direction. Once there is slack in the leash, you can go forward again. The second the leash gets tight stop again. Your dog will learn that pressure on his neck from a taught leash means that the walk stops.
  
  
• Equipment
  
  There are many products on the market designed to reduce your dog's pulling. Head halters work by controlling the dog's head and providing the owner a greater amount of control. Another option is a specially designed walking harness. Keep in mind that not all harnesses prevent pulling, but there are brands that are specifically designed to do so. Other products like pinch/prong collars can be effective but work by causing discomfort to the dog. Another option is the classic choke chain. This product can be dangerous because the harder the dog pulls the tighter the collar gets. At some point this can cause serious damage to a dog's trachea.

Wendy van Kerkhove owns Fresh Air Training, www.freshairtraining.com, and is an editorial advisory board member for Star Tribune Pet Central.

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Why Does My Dog Eat Grass Instead Of His Favorite Pet Food?

Dogs are natural self healers so it is in their instinctive nature to know what weeds or grass to eat and when.

Unlike herbivorous animals like the rabbits, dogs, which are meat eaters, do not have enzymes in their stomach to break down any ingested grass. The dog will have to ‘bring back up’ the ingested grass from its stomach thus clearing its stomach and any unpleasant objects in the stomach in the process, thus making the dog to feel better.

Grass contains enzymes, vitamins, minerals and amino acids which are helpful in relieving pain, treating infections, ulcers, skin diseases. Another big benefit for dog to eat grass is the presence of chlorophyll. Chlorophyll helps to fight infection, enrich fur coat and can even relieve pain as in joint aches.

There are mainly two situations that induce a dog to look for and eat grass:

• To help him to induce vomiting for the purpose of expelling unpleasant or poisonous things which he have eaten.
• To aid his digestion process.

To Induce Vomiting

One reason why dog eats grass is to induce vomiting to expel unpleasant or poisonous things that he had eaten.

It’s an adaptive behaviour that protects a dog against indigestion and food poisoning, as the grass will bind with the offending material. The grass will then act as an irritant and causes the dog to vomit, bringing up the poisonous material at the same time.

To Aid Digestion

Another reason why dog eats grass, like wheat grass, is for digestive aid.

Grass is like an herbal medicine or an internal cleanser to the dog since it will help him to expel excess mucus, bile and other impurities. It can aid his bowels and expel worms.

So it is not a bad problem if you see your dog eating weeds or grass. However, it is imperative to ensure that the area where he looks for his grass supply is not sprayed with chemicals that are harmful to him.

In fact, there is a growing trend among dog owners who will grow their own weeds and grasses for their dog consumption. Some even go to the extent of freezing grass harvested in summer for consumption during the winter season.

So the next time if you see a dog eating grass, don’t panic, as he is doing something helpful to his well being and health.

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House-training Tips For Adult Dogs

No matter your dog's age or size, she can be house-trained at any time. For successful house-training, you must eliminate the potential for all accidents. You must catch your dog in the act of eliminating, interrupt the behavior and take her outside to finish.

Have you given up hope of having a house-trained dog? You're not alone. Many people share their homes with adult dogs that are not completely house-trained. Incomplete house-training can be blamed on inconsistent humans. But often the dog gets the blame. This behavior can be altered, but it takes practice, patience and consistency. No matter your dog's age or size, she can be house-trained at any time. Small dogs have the reputation of being hard to house-train, but a more reasonable theory is that it's easier to tolerate a puddle that's roughly the size of a quarter or poop with similar dimensions to a tootsie roll than a gushing river, or worse.

From a dog's perspective, she feels discomfort so she wanders into a room and squats. She wasn't caught in the act and she experienced a positive outcome - relief. As long as this is regularly happening, your dog is well on her way to a lifetime of eliminating in the house unless things change.

For successful house-training, you must eliminate the potential for all accidents. You must catch your dog in the act of eliminating, interrupt the behavior and take her outside to finish. All positive outcomes such as praise or treats must be rewarded within a couple seconds of completion.

If you can't closely watch your dog while indoors, then she must be crated or tethered. Dogs will try not to eliminate when crated, but if the amount of time they are left kenneled exceeds their bladder capacity, accidents will happen. If need be, come home during your lunchtime or hire a dog walker to let the dog outside.

If your dog is not crate trained, then tethering is a great alternative. Use your dog's leash and tether her to an immovable object in the room that you are in. Your dog will have some freedom but will not be able to wander out of the "tether zone." If you're always on the go, then tether the dog to yourself. By doing this, when your dog has "to go," you'll catch her in the act and be able to interrupt the behavior and rush her outside to finish. Additionally, there is a good chance that you will start to notice your dog's pre-elimination cues, which may be very subtle.

Eventually, you'll look at your dog and think, "The last time I saw you sniff the ground in that manner you squatted. I'm going to take you out right now."

Thoroughly clean areas of previous accidents with a neutralizing agent and prevent access to these spots by keeping doors shut or placing something over them. Once your dog has gone accident-free for about three weeks, you're well on your way to success. If you are following the rules and still having problems, a medical condition might be the cause, so a trip to the vet will be in order.

Don't give up hope! Old dogs can learn new tricks and this is one every dog should know.

By Wendy Van Kerkhove, Star Tribune Sales and MarketingLast update: October 11, 2007 – 1:07 PM. Wendy van Kerkhove is the owner of Fresh Air Training and is an editorial advisory board member for Star Tribune Pet Central.

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You Can't Teach Any Dog New Trick Without His Lead/Leash

Whether we are bringing our dog for the evening walks or engaging him in his regular dog training exercise, one very important and essential tool that we must have on hand is a dog lead/leash.

According Webster’s Dictionary, a dog lead/leash is basically a chain, rope or strap attached to the collar or harness of the dog, and is used to lead him or hold him in check.

And as responsible dog owners, we need to know the different types of dog leads/leashes that are available in the market, and what are the guiding principles in choosing the correct types of dog leads/leashes for our dog.

Finally we will also take a look at the common mistake and correct techniques in handling a dog lead/leash.

Common types of Dog Leads and Leashes

Extending or Retractable leads - This type of dog lead ‘extends’ away from the owner for a certain distance before running out of slack. With these leashes, you have control of when to stop the lead extending further.

Slip leads - This type of lead is a simple lead with a loop on both sides. Adjustable clip is normally fixed at the end of the loop that tightens when pulled or loosens around the dog’s neck when there is no pulling.

This type of lead is normally used for training our dog as it offers good control over the dog.

Nylon leads - Nylon dog lead is generally cheaper but can cause rubbing and digging into our dog’s skin. So we highly recommend avoiding this type of lead.

Bungee leads - These leads are made from bungee cord and work like a shock absorber when your dog pulls ahead of you or lunges suddenly. The sudden shock is absorbed by the bungee and the tension on the bungee will bring the dog back to your side with a gentle pull.

Leather leads - This is a popular type of lead that is comfortable for your dog and gives you full control of how far your dog can wonder. A good lead for training but can be tiring on your arm if your dog tends to try and pull you around.

Do you want to want to know how to choose the correct dog lead/leash for your dog and the correct technique in handling the dog lead/leash? ...

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Halloween Tips For You And Your Dog

It’s that time of year when ghosts and goblins come knocking on your door demanding treats or playing tricks. Unfortunately, dogs do not understand the meaning of Halloween, and can be frightened by the loud noises and strange costumes resulting in un-characteristic behavior. Be sensitive to your dog’s safety by following these tips:

• Keep your dog restrained – It’s best to put him in a separate room, away from the front door. If you allow your dog at the front door, keep him restrained on a leash. A dog’s behavior, when he sees children in masks, is very unpredictable. What was believed to be a very gentle dog can become aggressive when scared, resulting in a bite. It’s best to be safe than sorry. Also, a restrained dog cannot run out the front door and become lost in the neighborhood. Just in case, make certain that identification tags are secure on your dog’s collar.
  
• Don’t leave your dog outside – Bring your dog inside, even if you have a fenced yard or invisible fence. Pranksters love to tease dogs, or even be cruel to them, so protect your dog by putting him in a safe place.
  
• Keep dogs away from candles and pumpkins – It’s easy for a dog to knock over a lit candle, or pumpkin, with his tail during a moment of excitement. Pumpkins are fine, just not in a location where your dog will accidentally knock them over.
  
• Think twice about dressing up your dog in a costume – Some dogs might enjoy being dressed up, but many don’t. Experiment first to see if your dog likes being in a costume. If so, fine – he’ll most likely enjoy himself. If he shows any resistance, don’t do it. There is enough stress for dogs around Halloween without adding the discomfort of wearing a costume.
  
• Keep candy away from your dog – The statistics are not known, but many dogs become very sick, and some die, from eating chocolate at Halloween. Many candies, especially chocolate, are very toxic to dogs. Make certain that all candies are kept well away from your dog, as well as used candy wrappers.
  
• Have fun, but think of your dog’s safety - Finally, if you want your dog to be involved in Halloween festivities, think about his safety much as you would your own child. Your dog does not understand Halloween, so he needs you to provide for his protection.

This information is brought to you as a public service by Amy Clear, Dog Behavioral Therapist & Trainer, Bark Busters Home Dog Training (www.BarkBusters.com).

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All Training And No Play Makes Jack Russell A Dull Dog

As dog lover, many of us always want to train our dog to be the perfect companion that will behave himself always.

But to build a strong and trusting relationship with our dog is not always just about always putting up a training regime for our dog to follow. Our dog is a social animal that needs fun time too.

There are also many benefits when we engage our dogs in fun and healthy games during playtime like:

1. It’s a great vehicle to build strong and trusting relationship with our dog. In the process we also learn to communicate better with our dog. Remember that every dog owners who play with their dog, stay with their dogs!
2. It keeps our dog away from boredom. Many dog problems like chewing on carpets, furniture, digging in the garden, etc are a direct result of dog getting bored.
3. Playing is also a form of exercise to keep our dog fit, healthy and mentally stimulated.

In addition, any game that your dog likes can be used as a reward for his good behavior in your training session with him. For example, use a favorite game like tug or fetch to reward recalls and long stays!

However, it is very important to remember that dog is a pack animal and you must always establish your alpha position, ie you remain in control of your dog even in the midst of all the excitement that you and your dog have while playing together.

Here are four all-time favorite games that you can play with your dog.

Game #1: Treasure Hunt

1. Put your dog on a "down-stay” position.
2. Put treats (food or toy) in a variety of hiding places within his sight.
3. He has to wait until all the hidings are done.
4. Return to your dog and issue the command "GO!", and send him to run around and find each of the hidden treats.
5. Repeat this activity by varying where you put the treat.
6. You can increase the difficulty like hiding the treat where he can’t see, example behind a piece of furniture, etc.

This game is especially good for dogs that have begun to learn "stay" command.

Game #2: Hide and Seek

1. Put your dog on a “sit” or “down” stay.
2. Go and hide.
3. When you are ready, call your dog. Be very excited when he finds you.
4. You can make it more difficult by "hiding" behind doors, couches, etc. If he doesn't find you at first, call him again.

This is a good game for teaching and training your dog to wait until when he is called.

It is also a great game for kids to play with dogs, as long as we teach the kids NOT to encourage the dog to chase them.

Game #3: Clean Up Your Toys

1. Get a box or bucket and collect a number of toys and other dog-safe items. Remember do not start with things that your dog likes to hoard or that you don't want them ever touching.
2. Scatter the toys in a small pile on the floor.
3. Through shaping and teasing, get your dog to pick up the items one at a time, and place them in your hand.
4. Remember to reward each "gift" that he place in your hand with a food treat.
5. Make it harder and harder to put stuff in your hand, while maintaining the fun of this "return for refund" game.
6. Each item retrieved is dumped into the bucket again.
7. Over time your dog may even learn to take the leap and start putting things directly into the bucket himself.

Game #4: The Shell Game

1. You need 3 small, identical buckets approximately one gallon size, Kibble or doggie cookies, a leash and training collar.
2. Place your dog in a “down-stay” position in the kitchen.
3. Go to your living room and place the three buckets side-by-side, with the mouth on the ground (upside down). Leave about one foot of space between each bucket.
4. Put a doggie-cookie under one of the buckets.
5. Return to your dog and give him your "release" command, and walk him over to the buckets.
6. Say, "Where's the cookie?" and encourage your dog to smell the buckets.
7. When he gets excited about the bucket with the cookie under it, praise him lavishly. Then, kick the bucket over and let him get the cookie.
8. Repeat this process by switching the bucket the cookie is hidden under.

Once your dog starts to get the hang of the game, you can add more complexity by spacing the buckets further apart or by adding more buckets.

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How to Remove Your Dog's Urine from Carpet

To remove your dog's urine from carpet:

1. Blot up the urine as quickly as possible with a dry cloth or paper towel
2. Apply a small amount of diluted detergent solution consisting of 1/4 teaspoon of mild liquid dish washing detergent with one quart of water; or use a solution of 1/4 cup of vinegar and one quart of water
3. Press the solution into the urine spot and continue to blot up the excess.
4. Do not rub the urine into the carpet.
5. Rinse the spot with clear water or an odor neutralizer and blot dry.
6. Place paper towels or clean, dry cloths over the area and weight them down. Change the paper towels or cloths as soon as they are soaked with liquid. Replace with new paper towels or clean dry cloths again.
7. Continue the process until the urine spot is dry.
8. After the spot has dried, brush the affected area and then vacuum the area, making sure that the affected spot is completely dry before walking on it.

Tip #1: Never use ammonia on a urine spot since urine is ammonia-based. Using ammonia will only attract your dog to return to it again to relieve himself.

Tip #2: In case you smell urine in your carpet but can't locate the exact spot, use a black light to pinpoint the spot.

Tip #3: Prevention is always better than cure. So before your dog urinates on your carpet, consider treating your carpet (or even your upholstered furniture) with a stain-resistant product such as Scotchgard.